April 26th, 2012
Bridgeport, CA
For
me, being in the desert is an exercise in sensory enhancement by means of
sensory deprivation.
At
first, nothing is striking. There’s some sagebrush, cricket noises. Everything
seems a bit monochromatic. Then hits a point when, suddenly, those mountains in
the distant look purple, green, that plateau is a vibrant red, those dunes a
creamier yellow, and the bushes are blue amidst pink and orange stones. There’s
music in the wind—a tinkling. And the smells. Clean, redeeming smells—the
heady, violet smell of succulent shade-dwelling sage.
Whenever
I’m sitting in some apartment, some coffee shop, some subway, and I dig into
the archives of my memory and pull anything out labeled “desert”, the memories
are huge. They’re not intricate, but they’re enormous—they take up more space,
project onto a larger screen. The sky is always bigger, my clothes always
billowing cinematically in the wind like out of some trendy movie with a
soundtrack by some up-and-coming singer-songwriter with thick glasses and tight
pants from some city in the Midwest—in my memory there’s practically lens
flare. Desert memories age well.
***
I
spent the morning running around the desert with him, clambering over boulders,
chasing lizards and snakes in wind so strong I was lifted off my feet a couple
times. At one point I found a pale pink desert rose—it had turned out to be
fake, but it was a desert rose anyway by virtue of my finding it, I decided.
We
didn’t touch each other, didn’t curl up together amidst the rocks or hold
hands. He wasn’t much for touching.
But
for once—for the first time, probably—we were enjoying this enchanted landscape
together, without his single-minded obsession over climbing. Granted, it
might’ve only been because the wind was too strong to make climbing a palatable
option, but he was feeling the magic with me anyway, and that was what
mattered.
“I
love this wind.”
“Do
you?”
“I
don’t know, strong warm wind kind of just feels like an affirmation. It
instills this sense of transformation and movement in me—like a propulsion into
the next chapter. And it makes me feel more aware—of my surroundings, of my
body. It turns me on at least as much as any man has.”
“…Totally.”
He didn’t get it. I’d gotten used to this.
***
He
gave me a piece of homework, right before I left.
"I
wrote you a letter before we were together. During the dark part. It was maybe
a year and a half ago and I was driving from Bishop to Vegas and passed through
Furnace Creek in Death Valley. I hid it under a large rock--you're going to go
through Furnace Creek, and after you pass it there'll be a small green sign on
your right, telling you you're one hundred feet below sea level. That's where I
left it. Go see if it's still there."
He
showed me on one of the road maps he'd scrounged up for my journey; he’d made a
big motherly fuss over me before I could wiggle my way out, making sure I had
everything I might need.
We
were in the Vons parking lot in Bishop, CA, and he completely forgot that he
hates PDA for a second…for a few seconds.
He
handed me the maps, broke away reluctantly, and said, "Go be free."
I
smiled, pulled him in gently by his curly hair and whispered carelessly,
"I'll come back."
And
that was it.
He
smiled at me and nodded, but when he turned around and walked back to his car
there was a quality to his body language implying he was in a state of
saving-face-in-front-of-the-firing-squad. Despite our historical inability to
relate to one another, on this particular day he understood me better than I
understood myself.
That
was it; I just didn’t know it yet.
***
Plugging in my inverter and
slipping off my dress and my shoes as I speed down the 395, I'm finally home
again. For me, home is breaking inertia--moving when I'm
stagnant, resting once I'm spent.
Like everyone else, I have
my weaker moments. Sometimes I go crazy, stop thinking straight, and overreact
towards—even past—the point of nervous breakdown. Sometimes I’m prone to
self-pity, that fat cannibalistic luxury the most privileged of us beset upon
ourselves. And that’s what uncertainty is so good at curing—when you’ve got to
make decisions and take things into your own hands, you don’t have time to sit
in a masturbatory pool of tears no matter how sensitive or weak you’re feeling.
I haven’t been around for
very long, but I’ve been around long enough to know that the victimization we
seem to so sanction as a culture hasn’t really gotten anyone shit.
Sure, it might win you a
court case, get you a sympathy fuck and sometimes a job. On occasion it’ll get
you rich and famous.
But it won’t really get you shit.
I
turn left onto the 190, windows down, butt naked, wet with adrenaline and
testosterone. The wind rocks my car harder the faster I go, and at a few points
I feel weightless. I'm not in a car, but a helpless plastic box of a car, a
paper boat, a cheap tent. Up ahead in the distance, torrential clouds of sand
completely blacken out large patches of Death Valley--right in the direction
I'm headed. The sun's going down and an especially furious bit of wind has me
drifting into the wrong lane, so I go faster. For some reason, I feel close to
death--not as if I'm in danger of dying, but more so that I'm being overtaken
by one of those moments when life feels too big for a mere mortal to contain
without blowing a fuse, one of those moments when life's fucking me rough in
ten thousand ways at once with sensory overload and existential euphoria and
there's not a damn thing I can do to stop it, one of those moments when I'm
just moving way too damn fast to catch up with myself.
Propping
my left leg up on my dashboard, I focus on my right foot and try to press my
gas pedal down through the bottom of my car, feeling as sprung and turned on as
any pretty little bygone man ever got me.
Dark dust clouds lay just
ahead spatially, darkness of night lay just ahead on the axis of time.
Once again approaching an
edge of the world, I drive into a remote, service-free expanse feeling at once
freed in the knowledge that if anything bad were to happen to me, I’ll be
unable to call for help. It’s this knowledge that helps force into me a true
presence of being.
A vague thrill, a latent
fear, being overwhelmed in each passing moment.
The temperature outside
reads sixty-three degrees Fahrenheit.
In a flash I’m flying past
the prettiest sand dune I’ve ever seen, though of course it also looks like
every other sand dune on Earth. Something about it compels me, this particular
innocuous, round lump of sand—perhaps only as arbitrary as the particular
attractions we may find in the curve of a particular shoulder, a particular
pair of lips, a particular set of eyelashes or forearms or breasts.
After ten seconds’
hesitation, a sense of urgency even greater than the urgency pulling me towards
my next rest stop compels me to flip a bitch and detour back to it. My mind
shut off, running on some ulterior automatic mode, I slam the car door shut and
emerge from my capsule, caressed in the spiced orange rays of the setting sun.
Shoes in one hand, keys in another, I sprint across the street, across the sage-dotted
sand, and collapse naked into my dune.
It’s a magestic thing, under
the sun. The sand is bracingly warm and cool, soft fragments of hard stone, and
compulsively I crawl up to the top, rushing until I’m short of breath, enjoying
the sensation of my breathing as it snatches frantically in the air. Across the
top I sprawl, opening my body to the sky, and roll over to watch the sand drip
down like sheets of honey as my body disturbs it. Lazily I follow the path of a
spider for a few moments as it ascends the dune after me. Swiftly embedding the
heel of my palm into the sand again, I send another of these sheets down to
meet the spider and obstruct its path—but the spider exceeds my expectations
and only runs faster, leaping up onto the descending sheet and running atop it
rather than allowing itself to be swallowed by it and carried back to the
bottom. I smile at the small bug’s perseverance, then roll down the hill
myself, plating my body in a fine coat of sand that shakes off dryly by the
time I’ve run all the way back to my car.
I let the door hang open and
lean my seat back, taking a moment to bask in my post-coital daze before
continuing onward.
An hour later, sudden
darkness falls. Like clockwork, the wind starts up, visible, even opaque, painting
in 3-D with the sand it carried—little abstract pictures brought to life by the
lonely beams of my headlights.
Everything changes in the
dark, and I’m now in the belly of some merciless beast—a ghost in a capsule,
quietly trying to make my way through, tensing my gut and holding my breath in
hopes it’ll save me from detection by the nebulous dark patrollers of my
imagination.
Steadily the thermometer
creeps up as the night deepens—the thermometer reads eighty-one degrees.
Such is the nocturnal sorcery
of Death Valley.
***
I made it to Furnace
Creek—the place he’d designated for his letter. I’d even found the rocks he’d
described. However, I’d also found an unexpected addition, hinting to me what
I’d find before I had a chance to look, in the form of another rock lying very
pointedly on top.
The letter was gone. I
contented myself with the thought that the anonymous rock-adder had found it
and stolen it for themselves as some precious relic.
Somehow, this struck me as a
cleaner resolution than if I’d found it. After all, that letter was an artifact
marking the start of a dark age of love synthesized in hatred. I continued on—car
thermometer now reading ninety-eight degrees—disappointed on the surface, but
leaking out a small glimmer of a smile that came from somewhere deeper.
Not for a moment during my
drive was I able to shake that feeling of intimacy with something dark and
nameless, that feeling of proximity with the underside of consciousness, some
world we may only be privy to in dreams of death. I drifted in and out of
thought and was eventually jolted out of my reverie when I slammed on my brakes
to avoid hitting a sign marking the end of my road, and the start of a fork
that would lead me back into the land of the living—Las Vegas, in this case. I
took a right and followed the directions through unfamiliar roads to the house
of a girl whose handwriting I knew better than her face, where I'd spend the next night or two. Paradoxically, it struck me that after a long winter, I was returning home.